The department’s sleepy capital and historic market towns offer a snapshot of an old-fashioned rural way of life far removed from the tourist trail It’s always good to be back in Périgueux. Though the administrative capital of the Dordogne lies in one of the French regions best known to British holidaymakers, it manages to remain relatively innocent…

Summer night markets, fairytale villages and painterly beaches feature among our tipsters’ travels At Chantelle village, 40 miles north of Clermont-Ferrand in the Auvergne, the organic butcher and deli offers game, pâtés, and wine, while fresh croissants await every morning at the boulangerie. The abbey, brocantes (secondhand shops) and bar are also popular with visitors,…

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